View of old Grindleford from the present Jubilee Gardens
Grindleford is often overlooked by the majority of the tourists to the Peak District. To some, nothing more than a conduit of roadways to the honeypots of the Peak District. Protected from the East, by the mighty ramparts of Froggatt Edge, with the more gentle backdrop from the West by Eyam and Leam Woodlands, and with the scything action of the iconic River Derwent travelling on its journey South from its humble beginnings high upon the Derwent moors. This is truly a valley village. Stop and explore, you will be amazed of the diverse history of this quiet and unassuming village.
It is suggested that the name of Grindleford possibly derives from when the grindstones, (grindlestones) were transported from the nearby quarries, across what would have been a ford in times before a bridge existed. Quarrying for the high quality stone in this area of the Peak, brought in a tremendous amount of work for the local population. Well known local names like, Tegness, Curbar, Froggatt, Tumbling Hill and Stoke, all had quarries and edges where the men worked for the prized gritstone.
The present bridge that spans the river Derwent today was built around 1758 and widened at a later date. Evidence of this widening of the bridge can be seen underneath the arches. The earliest documented bridge to be on this site, was in 1577, although an earlier wooden structure probably existed.
Grindleford parish extends to Stoke, Eyam Woodlands and Upper and Nether Padley where at the latter, Padley Chapel resides.
The second Padley Manor was built around 1415 when Robert Eyre returned from Agincourt to marry his sweetheart Joan Padley. They subsequently had 14 offspring, (no television in those days). Being devout Catholics, Robert also gave generously to the upkeep of St Michaels Church at Hathersage.
Padley Chapel frontage
On the 12th July 1588, and with the anti Catholic Queen Elizabeth I on the throne of England, two priests, Robert Ludlam and Nicholas Garlick, acting on behalf of the the Fitzherbert family, were found hiding within a Priests hole at Padley Hall. They were charged with high treason after holding an illegal mass at the Hall, and were taken to Derby, where they were found guilty and barbarically sentenced to be hung, drawn and quartered. Their gruesome remains were put on public display upon St Marys bridge in Derby as a warning to others.
The Chapel was apparently the former gatehouse to the original Padley Manor of the Bernak family who owned the manor and surrounding lands in the 13th century. During this time, the manor lands were let to the monks of Beauchief Abbey in Sheffield. The interesting and scattered remains of the hall can be seen around the rear of the Chapel grounds, where a spiral staircase is still obvious amongst the ruins..
Padley Chapel rear and ruins of Padley hall
The chapel was finally reconsecrated in 1933 when it came into the stewardship of the Roman Catholic church. An annual pilgrimage takes place in July of each year to remember the Martyrs of Padley.
Map of Area
Just metres above Padley Chapel you cross over a bridge that spans a man made gorge. This is the 300ft incline from Bolehill quarries to the main Midland Railway Hope Valley Line.
The Incline
In 1903, quarry work began at Bolehill. All the stone for the Dams at Howden and Derwent were quarried here and moved by rail to the dams in the Derwent valley. It is estimated that 1.25 million tons of stone were removed from an estimated 2.4 million tons of high quality silica gritstone. Some of the blocks weighed up to 30 tons, and were lifted on to the trucks by steam powered cranes..
Bolehill quarry
The quarry was a noisy and dangerous place and several fatalities were recorded. One such incident reported, was a man being crushed to death by three runaway trucks. Prior to the quarry being opened, it was worked for centuries for Millstones used first for grinding flour and grindstones for the cutlery industry of Sheffield. In later times, for the pulping of wood in Scandinavia for the paper manufacturing industry.
Today as you walk around underneath the edges you will see hundreds of these Millstones left in situ from the day the men finished their last shift, never to return. Production came to a finish virtually overnight, due to cheap French stones, which ironically had nothing to do with our French comrades, but were manufactured from very hard cement mixed with Chert stone, a type of quartz. These stones were favoured as they help produce a white flour rather than a grey flour that the gritstone of our peak district edges gave.
If you are feeling energetic, a path goes up the incline, where at the summit you can explore the old winding drum foundations and the further extent of Bolehill quarry, now a very popular climbing edge.
Winding Drum
Walk back towards Grindleford station, on your right you will see a row of houses built for the railway workers of the early Dore and Chinley line. As you turn the bend you are met with a very square and old building, this is Padley sawmill. This used to be powered by the waters of the Burbage Brook that at times of heavy rain, thunders down the ravine of Padley Gorge on its tumbling journey to the Derwent at Grindleford.
Padley Saw Mill
Proceed on your journey of discovery, over the bridge towards the old railway buildings of Grindleford Cafe. This is a very popular stop off for visitors, where the chip butties alone have gained legendary status among the passing public. It has been in the same family since 1973, when Phillip and Margaret Eastwood first took the old railway station buildings and turned it into a working cafe. There used to be an interesting collection of controversial signs displayed by Phil senior, who was renowned for not mincing his words. Several still exists, but not as controversial and don’t attract as many raised eyebrows as in the past. After Phillips death in 2007, his son, also named Phillip took over the cafe where they still serve the generous portions of cafe food for the hungry visitors.
Grindleford Cafe
The western portal of Totley tunnel runs right by the side of the cafe, and at 3 miles and 950 yards long, is the longest under land rail tunnel in the UK.
Work Started in October 1888. It must have been a monumental task for the navvies that worked in the dangerous and harsh conditions. One of the biggest problems was water, and at one period in 1889, 26,000 gallons of water was being pumped away each hour. During the excavation of the tunnel, a natural cavern was discovered, covering several hundred of feet in area. This was later used to construct a fifth ventilation shaft above the cavern to increase the air flow even further.
The tunnel was finally finished in 1894 but not without loss of life. Scores of navvies perished in the building of the tunnel and their families were also not immune to the harsh conditions of Navvy life.
In 1893, An outbreak of smallpox befell the shanty town of the workmen’s basic and unhygienic huts, and sadly 17 lives were recorded as died, 11 of those were infants and children.
Totley Tunnel
As you walk in a southerly direction up the incline away from the station, you find yourself opposite the Maynard. Built around a century ago and originally called the Maynard Arms. The pub first gained its full licence in 1857 after the closure of the Red Lion further down in the village.
The construction of the Maynard Arms
You can still see the Red Lion building and the fading painted sign on the wall. nowadays it is the Red Lion Cottage. A popular pub back in the day, especially after the sheep-wash down in the river Derwent, when upwards of 400 sheep would be washed in a day. Afterwards the farmers and helpers would retire to enjoy several hard earned pints of ale.
The old Red Lion
Continue down the hill towards the heart of Grindleford to St Helens church. Over recent years Grindleford has struggled to maintain its own village shop, but now a community shop now dwells within the vestry of the church. It is fairly well stocked with the very basic staples of most things food, it also provides refreshments of tea/coffee and cake, if that’s not a good enough reason to take a look around a church, I don’t know what is.
Community Shop
As you depart from your visit, look across the road to the old Toll Bar building. easily spotted by the protruding two storey central bay window that gave the Toll keeper sight up and down the turnpike road. Grindleford was once a very important junction of several important turnpike roads of the era, the Newhaven to Grindleford turnpike. and the Sheffield to Buxton turnpike that surprisingly went up the impressively steep Sir William hill, and the Mortimer road the that started at Grindleford to Penistone which from Moscar, we now commonly refer to as the Strines. Not all turnpikes made money, and unfortunately Mortimer road falls into that category.
The large wooden building to the right of the Toll Bar was once the village garage.
Tollbar
Proceed towards the grade 2 listed bridge that spans the river Derwent. This is where the old ford was most probably sited. One incident of note, was when a notorious 17th century highwayman exchanged shots with the bridge night watchman whilst trying to ford the river without being seen.
Grindleford Bridge
Before going over the bridge, lets take a slight detour. Proceed through the gate into the large field where once a small building existed at the gateway into the field, this was another village Blacksmiths.
Follow the trodden track at right angles towards the nearby woods of Horse Hay Coppice and Froggatt Woods. An ancient paved track runs through the woods, gradually terminating on Spooner Lane, Froggatt.
Above this main track, runs a wet and in places a very muddy track, wellies advised. Here you will find the quite hidden remains of a lead smelter site. A stone open culvert has been traced for 24 metres and part of this forms the antiquity of this important scheduled monument. Remains of various sized buildings can be seen, along with the wheel pit that once housed the long gone waterwheel that drove the bellows. The whole site is covered by an emerald green mat of Moss and Lichens, along with the whole atmosphere of peace and tranquility, a certain resonance with nature can be experienced.
Along this same track lies a large boulder with an inscription to Lady Riverdale who donated this 16 acres of woodland called Froggatt Wood to the National trust in memory of her parents Charles and Josephine Bingham. Lady Riverdale, or to give her real given name, Frances Josephine Bingham, was the wife of the first Baron Riverdale, Sir Arthur Balfour. He was a Sheffield businessman who made his fortunes in the great steel manufacturing trades that made Sheffield world famous. In the Spring, the woods are abound with traditional English Bluebells and can be a sanctuary for those seeking peace and solitude. This whole area is actually in Froggatt parish.
Lady Riverdale and her son
Retrace your steps back to Grindleford.
As you go over the bridge you will notice a narrow lane going up towards the rear of the Sir William pub between the two dwellings. The building on the right was the old Blacksmiths and the building to the left was the Post Office before it became a Butchers. You can see the alterations of the old Butchers, from a large front commercial window, reduced down to a smaller residential sized window.
The gennel that runs up between the old Butchers and Blacksmiths
Take the paved gennel which eventually leads to the Sir William Hotel.
The pub was renamed, from, “The Commercial”, after Sir William Bagshawe, who used to frequent the pub on his journey between his two houses at Norton in Sheffield and Wormhill near Buxton, or Sir William Saville, Lord of the manor of Eyam, or Sir William Cavendish who owned Stoke Hall. You decide to which applies, good luck. Stunning views up to Froggatt Edge can be enjoyed from the popular pub garden while enjoying a cool pint on a hot summers day.
Across from the pub you will see the war memorial with the names of the fallen villagers of both world wars. Constructed by Eyam man, Arthur Dane and built on the site of the old village well. First unveiled on Easter Day 27/3/1921, the second dedication was 9/11/1947. On remembrance Sunday of each year, local residents pay their respects to the servicemen who gave the ultimate sacrifice.
Originally this was the village green where once the children played happily around the village maypole, quite a thought invoking image comes into ones mind while reading the names of the men who gave their all, so those and other children could live their lives in peace and safety.
A very early photograph of Kenyons shop and Post Office
The original village Post Office on the left, before the building on the right was partly demolished to widen the Grindleford and Hathersage road.
A later photograph of Kenyons shop and Post Office
The house at the side of the memorial used to be the village shop with the post office next door before becoming private residences. The Post Office was last run by Miss Rebecca Kenyon, who at the age of 73, retired in September 1906 . She took on the duties from her father James Kenyon after his death in 1879. James also gave Grindleford its first school within this very same building before becoming the village store. There is mention that the original Bell public house was also housed in this building. On Miss Kenyons retirement, Mr T A Morton took over the running of the Post Office, opening a new Post Office next to the old Blacksmiths shop near to the Bridge before it eventually becoming the butchers and moving across the road to a more modern building and its final destination.
The Green today
The war memorial has several Kenyons raised upon the granite stone. A lasting but sad memorial to the Kenyons of Grindleford. The now non working water trough, is a past nod to the village water source. Behind the war memorial shown in the photo and just up the hill for a few yards, you will find the village Pinfold.
War Memorial and water trough
Back over the road at the side of the Sir William Hotel is where a much larger three storey store was built in 1906. Again run by the Kenyon family. Because of the size of the new store, they were able to sell a much wider range of produce and goods. After the end of the second world war it struggled as three members of the Kenyon family were killed in the war. It eventually became the Sir William cafe and alas in the early sixties it was demolished along with a row of the characterful Swallownest cottages, in the early sixties to create a car park for the Hotel.
The Commercial, cottages and Kenyons shop.
Swallownest Cottages photos courtesy of Alan Jacques
Our journey through this fascinating historic village continues back down the main road, past the current primary school on our left, to the junction where we have facing us, Bell cottages. This is another site of the Bell public house. It did appear to move around the village over the years. This is also the site of a long gone garage, with no sign of the original building due to it being partly demolished for road widening.
Kenyons petrol pump
Kenyons also ran a bus and carrier service from here. They were certainly a very enterprising family.
Kenyons coach
Turn right at this junction, pass on your left a row of cottages and allotments. You should eventually come to Goatscliffe Cottages, built 1911. These were once known as Tanyard Row, as they were built over the tan pits of Grindleford Tannery. The Tannery came into being in 1857 and ceased trading in 1913. Originally opened by William Smith tanner and carrier.
Although this historic building started life as the tannery, later in 1913 it became the Grindleford Model Laundry before its subsequent closure around 1993.
There is a lonely but significant valley that runs from opposite the old Laundry, up through Mag Clough, towards Eyam Edge road. Unfortunately this is mostly on private land. I was fortunate enough to be given permission to explore this fascinating valley in November 2023 by the land agent.
At the top of Goatscliff Lane, behind Goatscliff Farm, you will find a gateway with a stone gate post and a larger than usual hole within. This is the supposed Bargaining or Binding Stone. Local legend as it that if you shake hands through the hole, it makes the promise or agreement binding. A nice thought, and quite possible as in my opinion in the days of old, people were generally far more honest and trusting.
Bargain/Binding stone
From Goatscliff farm, there is a stolen bridleway that contours Mag Clough west. At the end of the bridleway you will see the Mag Clough tail sough stone cistern.
Magclough Tail sough cistern
Further on the now very wet track, and now descending to the Clough and Goatscliff Brook, there is what first appears to be an ornamental lake above a waterfall. On closer investigation of historic records, this served the tannery and later the laundry with the substantial amount of water required to operate such businesses.
Pond in Magclough
A little further up the track lies, semi derelict and roofless, an old pump house. This impressive piece of machinery was constructed in 1937 by the Bakewell Rural District Council to improve the local water supply. What we can see in the photograph are the two Tangye pumps, unfortunately the two engines that supplied the power to the pumps have long since been removed. Along with an underground fuel tank and a water tank measuring 5.0 x 4.0 by 2.5 metres, a pipe once lead uphill to a reservoir on the other side of the woods. The Mag Clough water rights were bought by Mr J F Woodward for £1,000 as part of the Eyam water improvements scheme in 1935
The machinery is a testament to the quality of our forefathers manufacturing skills, and I am sure that if the parts over time had not been removed, it would after a slight fettle, a squirt of WD40, and a well aimed kick, would burst into life.
Pump house in Mag Clough
The valley was also an important part of the local mining industry, mainly on and above Eyam Edge. New Engine and Ladywash mine being the two principal mines of many smaller mines in the area. The remains of these two mines can still be seen today. New Engine mine, 1863, had the deepest lead shaft in Derbyshire, 1,092 ft. The chimney was demolished in 1973, apparently illegally by the local landowner at the time. Two major soughs, Mag Clough sough and Stoke sough, were driven from New Engine and Ladywash Mines to help drain the workings, and evidence can still be seen today, if you know where to look..
New Engine Mine minus the chimney.
Running parallel with Mag Clough on the southern flanks lies Stoke woods and Fair Flora, (marked statue on the OS map), where once upon a time, the public were allowed access to see this lonely and mysterious figure. The landowners of Stoke Hall quarry have now sadly removed any access rights to visit this Roman goddess of flowers.
Fair Flora
Legend has it that she was gifted from Chatsworth House to Stoke Hall. Shortly after arriving at Stoke Hall, mysterious ghostly goings on were apparently witnessed. Added to the misfortune that seemed to befall the family, Flora was removed to her lonely spot by the family. There are numerous stories of the reasons behind her banishment.
Alan Jacques a long time resident of Grindleford writes in detail of Fair Flora, and his own experiences as a child. Please click on the link below.
Stoke Hall quarry has been supplying gritstone for Mills and buildings for centuries. The quality and the colour consistency made it a firm favourite with architects . The Sheffield Cutlers Hall built in 1832 chose Stoke Hall gritstone, plus Sheffield Town Hall, Banks and many more of the great buildings of Sheffield.
Stoke Hall itself lies on the extremes of the Parish boundary. It is a beautiful Grade 11* listed Georgian country house rebuilt in about 1751 from the Stoke Hall quarry gritstone. Set in a modest landscape of 22.5 acres that leads down to the River Derwent at Froggatt bridge. Within the private grounds lies a bath house fed by a warm spring.
The lands of Stoke originally were bestowed to William Peverel by William the Conqueror as documented in the Domesday book. The Stoke Hall that we see today was originally built for the Royalist, Richard Cavendish. Over the years the land and original Stoke Hall passed between various aristocratic families until bringing the history hundreds of years forwards to Emile Viner of the Sheffield steel manufacturing family purchased the hall. Later in 1973 it became an hotel until its demise in the early 1980s, but is now back in private ownership and is being carefully and sympathetically restored back to his former splendour.
On my final quest, I wanted to go and see what the cross on the OS map was on Eyam Edge. Again I sought out permission from the local land agent for Mag Clough Farm before entering private land.
Lord Denmans Cross
I will let one of my local heroes, Bert Ward, tell the story from the 1924-25 Sheffield Clarion Ramblers booklet.
I do hope that you the reader enjoys this part of my blog on Grindleford. Its been a fascinating discovery of some things that I just did not know, and thanks must go to the people before me that also did some historical gathering of information so that our heritage is never lost.
Special thanks go to Alan Jacques, a long time resident of Grindleford who kindly welcomed me into his home to show me his fascinating collection of old photographs and for sharing his memories.
Craig Ridgeway, another resident of Grindleford, and who introduced me to the idea of exploring Magclough and other oddities of the area.
Rosemary Lockie, for her blogs and photos within, “Wishfull Thinking”.
The Campen Collection.
The Keasbury-Gordon collection Photograph archive.
Peak in the Past.
NEDIAS.co.uk
George Herbert Bridges Ward, Sheffield Clarion ramblers.
Eastern Moors of the Peak District by Dave Torr 